What Dermaplaning Is
Dermaplaning is a clinical exfoliation technique performed with a sterile, surgical-grade blade held at a controlled angle to the skin. The blade lifts off dead cells from the upper layer of the stratum corneum and removes the fine vellus hair that sits on the surface. Done correctly, it does not cut or injure the living skin underneath.
The treatment is quiet by design. There is no heat, no chemical, and no downtime. The result is a softer surface texture and a noticeably smoother canvas — and that is genuinely the entire scope of the treatment. Trying to position dermaplaning as more than that does the procedure a disservice.
What It Does Well
Dermaplaning produces an immediate, visible smoothing of the skin's surface. Makeup applies more evenly. Serums and moisturizers absorb without the interference of dead cell buildup or vellus hair. Light reflects off the skin more uniformly, which is why most clients describe the result as a quiet brightness rather than a dramatic change.
It also functions well as a preparation step. Performed before a hydrofacial in the Chicago Loop or a light chemical peel, dermaplaning allows the subsequent treatment to work on a cleaner surface. The combined effect is more than either treatment delivers alone.
What It Doesn't Address
Dermaplaning is a surface treatment. It does not reach the depth required to influence pigmentation, fine lines, deeper textural change, or scarring. It will not improve melasma, sun damage, or post-inflammatory marks. Marketing that suggests otherwise overstates what the procedure can clinically do.
It is also not appropriate during active acne, when the inflamed lesions can be aggravated by the blade. In that situation, an acne-specific clinical facial is the more appropriate first step. Dermaplaning can return as part of the routine once the active phase resolves.
Who's a Candidate
Most adults with healthy, intact skin are reasonable candidates. The treatment tends to be especially useful for clients who notice that their makeup emphasizes texture, or who feel that their topical skincare is no longer absorbing the way it once did. Vellus hair removal is a meaningful secondary benefit for many clients, though it is not the primary clinical purpose.
Candidates who should generally pause include those with active acne, broken or compromised skin, recent sun exposure of any significance, or a recent history of isotretinoin use. A clinical assessment with our medical team clarifies the right timing.
Pairing Dermaplaning With Other Treatments
Dermaplaning works best as one element of a broader plan rather than as a standalone treatment expected to deliver results it cannot. Within a structured routine, it is typically scheduled monthly — often paired with a hydrofacial or used as a preparation step before a light peel or other surface-level treatment.
Within that structure, the quiet contribution of dermaplaning becomes more useful: a steady, low-friction smoothing that compounds with the more substantive work happening alongside it. For more on how the surrounding routine is structured, see our guide to maintaining results between appointments.
— FREQUENTLY ASKED —
Common Questions
Will dermaplaning make my hair grow back darker or thicker?
No. The vellus hair removed during dermaplaning is the same fine, soft hair that grows back exactly as it was before. The structure and color of vellus hair are determined at the follicle and are not changed by surface removal.
How often should I schedule dermaplaning?
Most clients are scheduled every three to four weeks, which aligns with the natural cell turnover cycle. More frequent treatment is generally not necessary and can compromise the barrier in clients with sensitive skin.
Is there any downtime?
No. Dermaplaning has no downtime. Clients return to the office or to social plans the same day. Sun protection should be applied as part of the standard routine, and direct sun exposure is best avoided immediately after.
Can dermaplaning replace other facial treatments?
No. Dermaplaning is a surface-level treatment that addresses smoothness and surface clarity. It does not replace treatments designed to address pigmentation, deeper texture, or signs of aging. It works best as one element of a broader plan.
Do I need a consultation before dermaplaning?
Yes. Although the treatment itself is quiet, candidacy depends on the current condition of the skin. Our medical team in the Chicago Loop confirms the right timing and identifies whether dermaplaning belongs in your current phase of care.